All articles listed are written by the worlds top gardening authors, we hope you enjoy their content as much as we have, if you would care to leave a short message about the article we will be pleased to pass it on to the author. Please go to :->
(Click) Organic Food And Flower Gardening A Way Of Life
A beautiful rain garden design will enhance the pleasure that people feel in their homes. The family room with a big screen television might be a wonderful room, but a rain garden design in the yard will be a very special place. A yard established with this type of design will provide a great place for meeting with friends and family.
A rain garden design in the backyard will be full of life and vibrant color. Your Yard will become the envy of all your friends who will probably want to know how you managed such a beautiful rain garden design. Most rain garden designs are the specialty of dedicated gardeners.
Dedicated gardeners do not go to the nurseries and choose the latest sale item to throw into the backyard. These people think long and hard about a design for their gardens. They are very familiar with the most popular designs, and they decide which of these designs will be best for the space they garden. The rain garden has special characteristics. Many of these dedicated gardeners choose the rain garden design for the special qualities involved.
A Rain Garden Design Makes Great Use Of Natural Resources
A rain garden design is structured to make the best use of natural resources especially water. A rain garden should be good news for those paying the water bill. This bill should be substantially reduced by those with a rain garden for their landscapes.
This type of garden is carefully planned and constructed to capture as much water as possible for use to nourish the plants in the garden. The properly constructed rain garden design should capture water that has run off the roof or gutter of a house.
A properly planned rain garden design should also help to eliminate some of the waste that runs off the soil into fresh water sources. The plants and the soil in this type of garden are carefully planted to keep waste and pollutants from causing the damage that they often do in other gardens. Therefore a rain garden should not be located too close to buildings because this could damage these structures.
These gardens must be carefully placed to capture the water. A rain garden should be placed where the plants will get plenty of sunshine. The sunshine is necessary for the growth of the plants in a rain garden. A beautiful rain garden design will add so much beauty to a home, and those people who would like to establish a garden should look carefully at using this design.
About the Author
Ann Marier has written articles on garden issues such as bird problems providing helpful tips and advice.
Read her latest articles on garden design offering a new insight and ideas
Wednesday, 4 February 2009
A Quick Guide To Lawn Fertilizing
If you want your lawn to look healthy and green, it is essential that you fertilize your lawn. Fertilizing is one of the most important factors that affect the growth of your lawn. Proper fertilizing provides color and growth to your lawn grass and also helps it to grow thick.
Let us take a look at the main constituents of fertilizers. Standard fertilizer contains nitrogen, phosphate and potash. Fertilizing involve the administration of all these constituents but in different amounts. Most lawns would need nitrogen in the maximum amount as it helps in fast growth, gives the grasses darker color and also thickens the grasses. However, you cannot neglect the administration of phosphate and potash. A deficient in phosphate and potash coupled with high dose of nitrogen will result in too much top growth. This can cause insufficient root growth and reduce nutrient storage capacity.
A balanced fertilizing program would include all the three constituents in proper amount and micro-nutrients that you lawn need. Micro-nutrients are minerals like iron, manganese, boron, zinc, etc. They are not required in large quantity but they are necessary for healthy grass growth. Your lawn soil should already have some of the micro-nutrients but the quantity may not be enough for healthy grass growth. You would have to provide those micro-nutrients that the soil is deficient in.
In order to know how much nitrogen, phosphate, potash and micronutrients to administer to your lawn, you need to get a soil test done. You can buy a soil test kit from your favorite nursery or send a soil sample to a laboratory for analysis. The latter is of course more accurate and provides more information about your lawn soil. The downside is that the cost is considerably higher than using a DIY soil test kit.
When you have received the report of the soil test from the lab, you will know the correct amount of nitrogen, phosphate, potash and micronutrients that your lawn need. The report will likely include suggestion about fertilizing schedule too. Do not apply the fertilizers in excess of the suggested amount. Doing so will likely cause very good top growth but poor development of the root system. In addition, the excess fertilizers might also cause ecological problems. Excess fertilizers may contaminate nearby lakes or streams due to runoff problem and that might ultimately harm the entire ecosystem.
In general, the best time to fertilize your lawn is about thirty days before the growing season. Then you should go on fertilizing after every sixty days or so throughout the growing season. That would help your lawn grass to grow thick and healthy. Once you have a strong and green lawn, you will discover another side benefit. The amount of weeds present in your lawn will wither. Simply put, the stronger your lawn grass is, the stronger is its resistance against weeds. Thus, proper fertilizing is an effective good way to control weed growth.
Fertilizing require a little planning and some effort to implement it. However, the result is definitely worth the effort. Start giving the nutrients that your lawn need today.
About the Author
Jack Greenwood is the webmaster of GreenLawnCareTips.com which provide information on lawn care and
simple fertilizing tips. Sign up for your free 5-part Green Lawn Care mini course at http://greenlawncaretips.com today.
Let us take a look at the main constituents of fertilizers. Standard fertilizer contains nitrogen, phosphate and potash. Fertilizing involve the administration of all these constituents but in different amounts. Most lawns would need nitrogen in the maximum amount as it helps in fast growth, gives the grasses darker color and also thickens the grasses. However, you cannot neglect the administration of phosphate and potash. A deficient in phosphate and potash coupled with high dose of nitrogen will result in too much top growth. This can cause insufficient root growth and reduce nutrient storage capacity.
A balanced fertilizing program would include all the three constituents in proper amount and micro-nutrients that you lawn need. Micro-nutrients are minerals like iron, manganese, boron, zinc, etc. They are not required in large quantity but they are necessary for healthy grass growth. Your lawn soil should already have some of the micro-nutrients but the quantity may not be enough for healthy grass growth. You would have to provide those micro-nutrients that the soil is deficient in.
In order to know how much nitrogen, phosphate, potash and micronutrients to administer to your lawn, you need to get a soil test done. You can buy a soil test kit from your favorite nursery or send a soil sample to a laboratory for analysis. The latter is of course more accurate and provides more information about your lawn soil. The downside is that the cost is considerably higher than using a DIY soil test kit.
When you have received the report of the soil test from the lab, you will know the correct amount of nitrogen, phosphate, potash and micronutrients that your lawn need. The report will likely include suggestion about fertilizing schedule too. Do not apply the fertilizers in excess of the suggested amount. Doing so will likely cause very good top growth but poor development of the root system. In addition, the excess fertilizers might also cause ecological problems. Excess fertilizers may contaminate nearby lakes or streams due to runoff problem and that might ultimately harm the entire ecosystem.
In general, the best time to fertilize your lawn is about thirty days before the growing season. Then you should go on fertilizing after every sixty days or so throughout the growing season. That would help your lawn grass to grow thick and healthy. Once you have a strong and green lawn, you will discover another side benefit. The amount of weeds present in your lawn will wither. Simply put, the stronger your lawn grass is, the stronger is its resistance against weeds. Thus, proper fertilizing is an effective good way to control weed growth.
Fertilizing require a little planning and some effort to implement it. However, the result is definitely worth the effort. Start giving the nutrients that your lawn need today.
About the Author
Jack Greenwood is the webmaster of GreenLawnCareTips.com which provide information on lawn care and
simple fertilizing tips. Sign up for your free 5-part Green Lawn Care mini course at http://greenlawncaretips.com today.
A New Approach To My House And Garden
There are so many things that we can do to fill our time. Through the years my hobbies have changed based on what stage in life I am in. When I was in high school I loved to sew. I made many of the clothes that I wore and I also sewed some clothing for my friends. I made many gifts using my mother's sewing machine. When I was in college I did not have the time or the space to sew. I started playing racquetball to fill what spare time I had. As I got older and had a family I did not have the time or the energy for racquetball any more. At that point in my life I was lucky to get everything done that needed to get done so I did not have a great deal of free time. Now my children have grown and I have extra time. I found during the years that they were growing up I neglected my house and garden. Decorating and gardening have always been things that I have been interested in but have not taken the time to do. I started my getting a house and garden magazine. I looked at different decorating ideas for the house and also some great plans for extending your living space into the outdoor area of your home. My husband thought that some of the ideas looked quite complicated and that we should hire a gardener to complete the projects. I told him that this would defeat the purpose of me getting involved in putting time in the house and garden. I went to the large do it yourself home improvement store with my house and garden magazine in tow. I found a helpful knowledgeable clerk and showed them the picture of what I wanted to create in the backyard. He showed me where all the supplies were that I would need to create the fountain area and path that were shown in the picture. He made some suggestions of alternative materials I could use that would hold up better for our climate. I was able to get all the supplies in the truck with one trip. My next-door neighbor is retired and loves working in the yard. He helped me unload the supplies and also to stack the area for the path. Within two days we completed the project and it looked even better than the picture in the magazine. I have taken great pride in the accomplishment and look forward to tackling a new garden project next spring. Now I am going to try some of the indoor decorating ideas for our living room area.
About the Author
Percy Troughton's runs his own garden center in Arkansas. Check out these great Gardening Resources and ideas.
http://www.gardenresourcesworld.net
About the Author
Percy Troughton's runs his own garden center in Arkansas. Check out these great Gardening Resources and ideas.
http://www.gardenresourcesworld.net
Monday, 8 December 2008
Preventing Weeds In A Winter Mediterranean Garden
All articles listed are written by the worlds top gardening authors, we hope you enjoy there content as much as we have, if you would care to leave a short message about the article we will be pleased to pass it on to the author. Please go to :->
(Click) Organic Food A Way Of Life
Preventing Weeds In A Winter Mediterranean Garden
There are a number of ways by which garden weeds can be controlled. In very small garden beds, they can always be hand-picked, a somewhat laborious job admittedly, but not especially so in small scale situations. However, where larger areas are concerned, it is often necessary to seek alternative methods, particularly during the winter/spring seasons in Mediterranean climates, as this is the time of year that vast quantities of annual weed seeds germinate. As in most aspects of life, prevention is better than cure. So how can weeds be prevented in the first place, and what are the pros and cons of the various methods?
One option, is to apply a pre-emergent herbicide, by spraying the ground before it becomes covered in weeds. While this might have its place in large scale situations, it is undesirable in a private garden. The pre-emergent weed killers possess residual properties allowing it to kill seedlings as they emerge over a certain period of time. While being in some ways a convenient method, they can grant you "freedom" from weeds for about 4-6 months, they effectively poison the top layer of soil while in an active state. If applied improperly, especially by untrained persons, they can cause serious damage to the soil and to neighboring garden plants.
A far safer and eco-friendly weed control strategy, is to spread a layer of mulch, usually about 10cm deep, over the soil between the plants. Organic mulches such as wood chippings, provide better growing conditions for the plants than inorganic ones like pebbles, and by slowly degrading, enrich the soil with humus. As far as weed control is concerned, wood chippings are as effective as pebbles provided they are spread to an adequate depth. It should be pointed out though, that mulching is generally ineffective against perennial weeds, its relevance being restricted to annuals.
Sometimes, decorative pebbles or some other type of aggregate, are used as part of the overall garden design. In dry climate and Mediterranean gardens they help to save water by offering an alternative to lawns and flower beds. For example, a bed adjoining the house can be sparsely planted with some interesting sculptural plants, the spaces between them covered by pebbles. A few decorative pots containing flowers can be added, while a climbing rose is trained on the wall as an espalier.
In a circumstance similar to this, it is common for landscape fabrics to be laid on the ground before the pebbles are spread. Portions of fabric are simply cut away where a planted is to be put in the ground. Landscape fabrics, prevent seeds in the ground from germinating, and are therefore considered by many to be an essential tool in weed prevention. There are however, some serious problems associated with their use, of which you may not be aware. Firstly, impermeable plastic sheets, are liable to direct rainwater towards the house, thereby being a source of damp in future years. For this reason, only semi-impermeable materials should be used, but even with these, rain water does not always drain evenly through the soil, but instead, tends to collect at certain points. A second consequence, is that sufficient rainwater is prevented from washing away, or leaching the salts that inevitably build up in the irrigated soil of a dry climate garden. In time, the soil salinity could rise to levels that retard plant growth and seriously damage the soil. Therefore, instead of spreading a fabric, I recommend adding the aggregates to a further depth of say 2-3 cm, to ensure that the weed prevention properties of the mulch are not lost.
About the Author
My name is Jonathan Ya'akobi. I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to students on training courses. I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you. So you're welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com
(Click) Organic Food A Way Of Life
Preventing Weeds In A Winter Mediterranean Garden
There are a number of ways by which garden weeds can be controlled. In very small garden beds, they can always be hand-picked, a somewhat laborious job admittedly, but not especially so in small scale situations. However, where larger areas are concerned, it is often necessary to seek alternative methods, particularly during the winter/spring seasons in Mediterranean climates, as this is the time of year that vast quantities of annual weed seeds germinate. As in most aspects of life, prevention is better than cure. So how can weeds be prevented in the first place, and what are the pros and cons of the various methods?
One option, is to apply a pre-emergent herbicide, by spraying the ground before it becomes covered in weeds. While this might have its place in large scale situations, it is undesirable in a private garden. The pre-emergent weed killers possess residual properties allowing it to kill seedlings as they emerge over a certain period of time. While being in some ways a convenient method, they can grant you "freedom" from weeds for about 4-6 months, they effectively poison the top layer of soil while in an active state. If applied improperly, especially by untrained persons, they can cause serious damage to the soil and to neighboring garden plants.
A far safer and eco-friendly weed control strategy, is to spread a layer of mulch, usually about 10cm deep, over the soil between the plants. Organic mulches such as wood chippings, provide better growing conditions for the plants than inorganic ones like pebbles, and by slowly degrading, enrich the soil with humus. As far as weed control is concerned, wood chippings are as effective as pebbles provided they are spread to an adequate depth. It should be pointed out though, that mulching is generally ineffective against perennial weeds, its relevance being restricted to annuals.
Sometimes, decorative pebbles or some other type of aggregate, are used as part of the overall garden design. In dry climate and Mediterranean gardens they help to save water by offering an alternative to lawns and flower beds. For example, a bed adjoining the house can be sparsely planted with some interesting sculptural plants, the spaces between them covered by pebbles. A few decorative pots containing flowers can be added, while a climbing rose is trained on the wall as an espalier.
In a circumstance similar to this, it is common for landscape fabrics to be laid on the ground before the pebbles are spread. Portions of fabric are simply cut away where a planted is to be put in the ground. Landscape fabrics, prevent seeds in the ground from germinating, and are therefore considered by many to be an essential tool in weed prevention. There are however, some serious problems associated with their use, of which you may not be aware. Firstly, impermeable plastic sheets, are liable to direct rainwater towards the house, thereby being a source of damp in future years. For this reason, only semi-impermeable materials should be used, but even with these, rain water does not always drain evenly through the soil, but instead, tends to collect at certain points. A second consequence, is that sufficient rainwater is prevented from washing away, or leaching the salts that inevitably build up in the irrigated soil of a dry climate garden. In time, the soil salinity could rise to levels that retard plant growth and seriously damage the soil. Therefore, instead of spreading a fabric, I recommend adding the aggregates to a further depth of say 2-3 cm, to ensure that the weed prevention properties of the mulch are not lost.
About the Author
My name is Jonathan Ya'akobi. I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to students on training courses. I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you. So you're welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com
Preventing Garden Weeds A Guide For The Autumn in Mediterranean Climates
Preventing Garden Weeds - A Guide For The Autumn in Mediterranean Climates
Autumn has arrived in the northern Hemisphere, and with winter approaching, there are two weed issues that should be faced. One is how to prepare the garden so that the weeds are controlled to manageable proportions, and the other is how to deal with noxious perennial weeds right now. I will discuss the perennials later in the article.
The main problem with winter weeds in a Mediterranean type climate, is the high rate of germination and therefore the capacity of the weeds to really smother whole areas. This, can actually be advantageous in large scale situations, but not so in small garden beds. Of course the weeds can always be picked out periodically during the winter, but prevention is usually better than cure as the saying goes. The question is how and by which method?
The best way is to spread a natural, organic mulch over the bare soil to a depth of about 10 cm. Aesthetically speaking, the most appropriate material are wood chippings, although functionally at least, straw and even weeds can be used. Organic mulches are to be preferred to inorganic ones like pebbles or small rocks, because they not only inhibit germination more effectively, but they also improve the soil and general conditions in which the plants grow. Mulches are ineffective though in preventing perennials such as invasive lawn grasses. These have to be treated after they have emerged.
Another method of retarding winter weeds is one often suggested, but which is in my view highly undesirable in a small garden - namely the use of pre-emergent herbicides. These are weed killers that kill the weed seedlings shortly after germination. The crucial point to remember is that these are residual herbicides, effectively poisoning the top layer of the soil for a period of time ranging from two to six months. Furthermore, their application requires considerable knowledge and experience by the user, in order to be both effective on the one hand, but without causing damage to the soil and to neighbouring plants on the other. The granular types are more suitable for a small area than the spraying of a liquid one. Needless to say, only qualified persons should carry out the work.
In big gardens, where there may be large spaces which have yet to be planted, the spraying of empty areas with a pre emergent, may be reluctantly considered, because mulching is often impractical over large areas, mainly for economic reasons, as would be removing weeds by hand through the winter. There is though another way of managing weeds in these situations, which has none of the draw backs associated with residual herbicides, and that is to periodically mow the weeds, say once a month, by either a mechanical weed tool like a strimmer or if possible, even by a lawn mower. The weeds are not eliminated but kept under control. From all points of view this is better for the health of the soil, thereby creating better growing conditions when the open area is finally planted up.
Yet there is still important work to be done with the highly problematical perennial weeds at this time of year. These, in order to be eliminated, have to be treated with a systemic herbicide such as Roundup or other brands of Glyphosate. It should be remembered that Glyphosate, in order to get down to the roots, works slowly and when the temperatures are over 23-24 c. So at the time of writing, the beginning of October, this is about the last chance to effectively deal with the noxious perennial weeds until next spring.
About the Author
My name is Jonathan Ya'akobi. I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to students on training courses. I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you. So you're welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com
Autumn has arrived in the northern Hemisphere, and with winter approaching, there are two weed issues that should be faced. One is how to prepare the garden so that the weeds are controlled to manageable proportions, and the other is how to deal with noxious perennial weeds right now. I will discuss the perennials later in the article.
The main problem with winter weeds in a Mediterranean type climate, is the high rate of germination and therefore the capacity of the weeds to really smother whole areas. This, can actually be advantageous in large scale situations, but not so in small garden beds. Of course the weeds can always be picked out periodically during the winter, but prevention is usually better than cure as the saying goes. The question is how and by which method?
The best way is to spread a natural, organic mulch over the bare soil to a depth of about 10 cm. Aesthetically speaking, the most appropriate material are wood chippings, although functionally at least, straw and even weeds can be used. Organic mulches are to be preferred to inorganic ones like pebbles or small rocks, because they not only inhibit germination more effectively, but they also improve the soil and general conditions in which the plants grow. Mulches are ineffective though in preventing perennials such as invasive lawn grasses. These have to be treated after they have emerged.
Another method of retarding winter weeds is one often suggested, but which is in my view highly undesirable in a small garden - namely the use of pre-emergent herbicides. These are weed killers that kill the weed seedlings shortly after germination. The crucial point to remember is that these are residual herbicides, effectively poisoning the top layer of the soil for a period of time ranging from two to six months. Furthermore, their application requires considerable knowledge and experience by the user, in order to be both effective on the one hand, but without causing damage to the soil and to neighbouring plants on the other. The granular types are more suitable for a small area than the spraying of a liquid one. Needless to say, only qualified persons should carry out the work.
In big gardens, where there may be large spaces which have yet to be planted, the spraying of empty areas with a pre emergent, may be reluctantly considered, because mulching is often impractical over large areas, mainly for economic reasons, as would be removing weeds by hand through the winter. There is though another way of managing weeds in these situations, which has none of the draw backs associated with residual herbicides, and that is to periodically mow the weeds, say once a month, by either a mechanical weed tool like a strimmer or if possible, even by a lawn mower. The weeds are not eliminated but kept under control. From all points of view this is better for the health of the soil, thereby creating better growing conditions when the open area is finally planted up.
Yet there is still important work to be done with the highly problematical perennial weeds at this time of year. These, in order to be eliminated, have to be treated with a systemic herbicide such as Roundup or other brands of Glyphosate. It should be remembered that Glyphosate, in order to get down to the roots, works slowly and when the temperatures are over 23-24 c. So at the time of writing, the beginning of October, this is about the last chance to effectively deal with the noxious perennial weeds until next spring.
About the Author
My name is Jonathan Ya'akobi. I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to students on training courses. I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you. So you're welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com
Prevent Wind Damage To Your Greenhouse
Prevent Wind Damage To Your Greenhouse
ALL greenhouses are particularly vulnerable to wind damage, and even more so when new.
Of course, some models are stronger in the wind, but they are ALL vulnerable to wind damage - EVEN THE VERY STRONGEST MODELS AVAILABLE IN BRITAIN. So we recommend that you take the potential threat of the wind to damage your greenhouse very seriously not just when choosing your greenhouse, but also positioning it, maintaining it and checking it on an ongoing basis.
Severe winds are so much more common nowadays- the kind of wind which we used to see once every 10 years, now seems to come more than once a year!
To help prevent panes of glass blowing out and to minimize the risk of more serious damage follow these steps:
Position your greenhouse in a position that is as sheltered from the wind as possible. Consider planting hedges or positioning fences as protection from the winds in the future.
Go for the strongest greenhouse you can afford: as a general rule, the more you spend (on the basic frame- not your total bill), the stronger the frame will be. Consider bar capping to replace clips if it is available.
If your glass is held in with clips, your greenhouse is most vulnerable to panes of glass blowing out in high winds. To help prevent this, we recommend using silicone sealant to secure the clips.
Alternatively if you have an Elite or Peak greenhouse you can replace the clips with Bar capping, a full length PVC capping system that secures the glass all the way up and holds it far more firmly in windy conditions.
Please ring us on 0870 4422328 for details.
M ake sure your greenhouse is anchored down to the floor as securely as possible. If your greenhouse is on slabs or concrete; drill and screw it down with brown Rawlplugs and 2" no 10 screws using a 7mm hammer drill bit.
Make sure that your greenhouse is attached properly to your metal base (if applicable) Although some bases come with metal 'J-clips' to attach them to the greenhouse, If you live in windy conditions, we recommend that you drill through the cill of the greenhouse, through the base and bolt them together with a standard greenhouse bolt and nut. Do this about every 2-4' around the greenhouse. This provides a good extra precaution. (Take care if you do this before glazing that your bolt head will not be in the way of the glass)
Shelter your greenhouse by situating fences or hedging in the way of the prevailing winds. Also be aware that areas that look 'sheltered' may in fact be 'wind tunnels' (e.g down the side of a house)
This is very important
Before heavy winds, make sure that your doors and windows are closed and will stay closed during the wind. If you have a sliding door that has no catch to keep it closed, then you can secure it by drilling a hole in the top door track and inserting a padlock.
After heavy winds, Check your greenhouse. You may find that some clips have moved and got behind the glass and are not securing it - This may weaken the fixing of the pane, then later it may blow out in a comparatively mild wind. These clips need repositioning as soon as possible and to help keep them in place you can put some silione around them. Likewise you may even have had a pane blow out and without checking you may never realize it: this is a dangerous situation because there is a gap in the greenhouse and if the wind gets up again it could cause some more damage quickly. NEVER try and repair your greenhouse whilst it is still windy.
If you haven't actually ordered your greenhouse yet, then we recommend that you choose a Hercules or a Robinsons greenhouse for the best wind resistance. But even with these very strongst models, you should remain vigilent.
Your greenhouse is usually included on your home insurance, but it's as well to check this when you talk to your insurers. No greenhouse manufacturer that we know of gives any kind of guarantee for damage caused to your greenhouse by wind.
Please do take the threat posed to your greenhouse by the wind seriously. A few more precautions and a little regular vigilance and maintenance will stack the odds in your favour. If you can see a problem early it can often be mended easily and prevent the damage spreading.
If you have lost some panes of glass, then you can usually get this quickly from your local glass shop. We do stock most of the glass sizes of course, and if you are able to collect from our warehouse in Stoke-on-Trent then we an supply it for you at the best possible price - sometimes less than half the price of your local glass shop. However if you can't collect from our warehouse, your local glass shop will usually be quicker and cheaper.
If glass does blow out of your greenhouse, try and block the hole as quickly as possible even if it's just with a blanket held on with clothes pegs- this stops the wind getting in and casing further damage. Of course you can get glass from us, but we only recommend that you get your replacement glass from us if you are able to collect it. We can not deliver glass in small quantities for a competitive price. If you are unsure where you can get glass locally, then you can type 'glass merchant' into www.yell.com
If the worst happens, and your greenhouse is destroyed by winds, then you should contact your insurance company who will advise you what to do- Usually, this may be to get a written quotation for a replacement. We can help with providing quotations for replacements including removal of the old greenhouse and assembly of the new please call us on 0870 442 2328.
About the Author
The Greenhouse People - http://www.greenhousepeople.co.uk - UK suppliers of Greenhouses for all your growing needs - we stock wooden greenhouses, glass greenhouses, Robinsons greenhouses, Super 7 propagators and many more.
ALL greenhouses are particularly vulnerable to wind damage, and even more so when new.
Of course, some models are stronger in the wind, but they are ALL vulnerable to wind damage - EVEN THE VERY STRONGEST MODELS AVAILABLE IN BRITAIN. So we recommend that you take the potential threat of the wind to damage your greenhouse very seriously not just when choosing your greenhouse, but also positioning it, maintaining it and checking it on an ongoing basis.
Severe winds are so much more common nowadays- the kind of wind which we used to see once every 10 years, now seems to come more than once a year!
To help prevent panes of glass blowing out and to minimize the risk of more serious damage follow these steps:
Position your greenhouse in a position that is as sheltered from the wind as possible. Consider planting hedges or positioning fences as protection from the winds in the future.
Go for the strongest greenhouse you can afford: as a general rule, the more you spend (on the basic frame- not your total bill), the stronger the frame will be. Consider bar capping to replace clips if it is available.
If your glass is held in with clips, your greenhouse is most vulnerable to panes of glass blowing out in high winds. To help prevent this, we recommend using silicone sealant to secure the clips.
Alternatively if you have an Elite or Peak greenhouse you can replace the clips with Bar capping, a full length PVC capping system that secures the glass all the way up and holds it far more firmly in windy conditions.
Please ring us on 0870 4422328 for details.
M ake sure your greenhouse is anchored down to the floor as securely as possible. If your greenhouse is on slabs or concrete; drill and screw it down with brown Rawlplugs and 2" no 10 screws using a 7mm hammer drill bit.
Make sure that your greenhouse is attached properly to your metal base (if applicable) Although some bases come with metal 'J-clips' to attach them to the greenhouse, If you live in windy conditions, we recommend that you drill through the cill of the greenhouse, through the base and bolt them together with a standard greenhouse bolt and nut. Do this about every 2-4' around the greenhouse. This provides a good extra precaution. (Take care if you do this before glazing that your bolt head will not be in the way of the glass)
Shelter your greenhouse by situating fences or hedging in the way of the prevailing winds. Also be aware that areas that look 'sheltered' may in fact be 'wind tunnels' (e.g down the side of a house)
This is very important
Before heavy winds, make sure that your doors and windows are closed and will stay closed during the wind. If you have a sliding door that has no catch to keep it closed, then you can secure it by drilling a hole in the top door track and inserting a padlock.
After heavy winds, Check your greenhouse. You may find that some clips have moved and got behind the glass and are not securing it - This may weaken the fixing of the pane, then later it may blow out in a comparatively mild wind. These clips need repositioning as soon as possible and to help keep them in place you can put some silione around them. Likewise you may even have had a pane blow out and without checking you may never realize it: this is a dangerous situation because there is a gap in the greenhouse and if the wind gets up again it could cause some more damage quickly. NEVER try and repair your greenhouse whilst it is still windy.
If you haven't actually ordered your greenhouse yet, then we recommend that you choose a Hercules or a Robinsons greenhouse for the best wind resistance. But even with these very strongst models, you should remain vigilent.
Your greenhouse is usually included on your home insurance, but it's as well to check this when you talk to your insurers. No greenhouse manufacturer that we know of gives any kind of guarantee for damage caused to your greenhouse by wind.
Please do take the threat posed to your greenhouse by the wind seriously. A few more precautions and a little regular vigilance and maintenance will stack the odds in your favour. If you can see a problem early it can often be mended easily and prevent the damage spreading.
If you have lost some panes of glass, then you can usually get this quickly from your local glass shop. We do stock most of the glass sizes of course, and if you are able to collect from our warehouse in Stoke-on-Trent then we an supply it for you at the best possible price - sometimes less than half the price of your local glass shop. However if you can't collect from our warehouse, your local glass shop will usually be quicker and cheaper.
If glass does blow out of your greenhouse, try and block the hole as quickly as possible even if it's just with a blanket held on with clothes pegs- this stops the wind getting in and casing further damage. Of course you can get glass from us, but we only recommend that you get your replacement glass from us if you are able to collect it. We can not deliver glass in small quantities for a competitive price. If you are unsure where you can get glass locally, then you can type 'glass merchant' into www.yell.com
If the worst happens, and your greenhouse is destroyed by winds, then you should contact your insurance company who will advise you what to do- Usually, this may be to get a written quotation for a replacement. We can help with providing quotations for replacements including removal of the old greenhouse and assembly of the new please call us on 0870 442 2328.
About the Author
The Greenhouse People - http://www.greenhousepeople.co.uk - UK suppliers of Greenhouses for all your growing needs - we stock wooden greenhouses, glass greenhouses, Robinsons greenhouses, Super 7 propagators and many more.
Preserving Flowers - How Can You Do It
Preserving Flowers - How Can You Do It
Sparkling sunshine. Pretty blossoms. Evergreen leaves. Fresh zephyr. All these and more, aptly describe April approaching. Far from the knowledge of many, such month makes the desert region look stunning. It is there that bright color abounds with the sprouting of the hedgehog cacti, penstemon, acacia and palo verde, among the others.
A lot of roses are also at its peak, which is why there are plenty of locals who take the opportunity in preserving flowers that have been freshly picked. The result will not only enhance the aesthetic value of your interiors but you can also enjoy it for years.
There are actually a lot of methods in preserving flowers namely air ventilation, microwave and chemical application. The common denominator among the three is that they undergo the process of drying. All of those only have one principle, which is to remove the moisture slowly but still able to maintain the flora's original color, shape and texture as much as possible. It does not really take much effort on your end to achieve satisfactory results.
You just really have to be careful that the steps have been religiously followed. When you do, you will be surprised of the great result..of what you were able to make. The elements needed are also not hard to find since they are available in hobby shops or craft stores all year-round.
Air ventilation is the most common technique in preserving flowers. This is perfect for those who are tight on their schedule because it only takes a little period for completion. Any type of that does not wither immediately can be applied.
First is to tie the stems into loose bunches with bands or wires. Hang it upside down in a dark room where a great amount of breeze can enter. It takes several days or even more than a week for it to be totally done.
However, it depends on the thickness of the foliage since the fleshier it is, the more time is asked for it to be desiccated. For those that quickly wilt away, there must be a supportive substance to keep its form.
One of the aspects for preserving flowers that become immediately arid is the utilization of fine sand. It is a conventional manner but definitely one of the best. The problem though is that it is heavy so it bruises the delicate petals.
Another desiccant is borax, which is relatively cheap to buy. Much caution is considered necessary for this since it can irritate the eyes. The one that is pure can achieve a rapid aftermath but there is the peril of burning or bleaching. For an agent that is mild, the said substance can be combined with white cornmeal. Even if it has been utilized before, it can still be applicable for recycling.
About the Author
FloralPatch.com provides safe and secure Same Day Flower Delivery of fresh flowers, floral bouqets, arrangements, and gifts. Cheap Flower Delivery available with same-day delivery.You can get a unique content version of this article.
Sparkling sunshine. Pretty blossoms. Evergreen leaves. Fresh zephyr. All these and more, aptly describe April approaching. Far from the knowledge of many, such month makes the desert region look stunning. It is there that bright color abounds with the sprouting of the hedgehog cacti, penstemon, acacia and palo verde, among the others.
A lot of roses are also at its peak, which is why there are plenty of locals who take the opportunity in preserving flowers that have been freshly picked. The result will not only enhance the aesthetic value of your interiors but you can also enjoy it for years.
There are actually a lot of methods in preserving flowers namely air ventilation, microwave and chemical application. The common denominator among the three is that they undergo the process of drying. All of those only have one principle, which is to remove the moisture slowly but still able to maintain the flora's original color, shape and texture as much as possible. It does not really take much effort on your end to achieve satisfactory results.
You just really have to be careful that the steps have been religiously followed. When you do, you will be surprised of the great result..of what you were able to make. The elements needed are also not hard to find since they are available in hobby shops or craft stores all year-round.
Air ventilation is the most common technique in preserving flowers. This is perfect for those who are tight on their schedule because it only takes a little period for completion. Any type of that does not wither immediately can be applied.
First is to tie the stems into loose bunches with bands or wires. Hang it upside down in a dark room where a great amount of breeze can enter. It takes several days or even more than a week for it to be totally done.
However, it depends on the thickness of the foliage since the fleshier it is, the more time is asked for it to be desiccated. For those that quickly wilt away, there must be a supportive substance to keep its form.
One of the aspects for preserving flowers that become immediately arid is the utilization of fine sand. It is a conventional manner but definitely one of the best. The problem though is that it is heavy so it bruises the delicate petals.
Another desiccant is borax, which is relatively cheap to buy. Much caution is considered necessary for this since it can irritate the eyes. The one that is pure can achieve a rapid aftermath but there is the peril of burning or bleaching. For an agent that is mild, the said substance can be combined with white cornmeal. Even if it has been utilized before, it can still be applicable for recycling.
About the Author
FloralPatch.com provides safe and secure Same Day Flower Delivery of fresh flowers, floral bouqets, arrangements, and gifts. Cheap Flower Delivery available with same-day delivery.You can get a unique content version of this article.
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